What The f**k Are Peptides?

In super simple terms, peptides are small chains of amino acids - the building blocks of the proteins within your skin. Peptides are present in every living cell and they play a crucial role in the physiological and biochemical functions of life.

Ingredients 101: Hyaluronic Acid

Natural or Synthetic: Both

The Science: Hyaluronic acid is a naturally occurring polysaccharide (carbohydrate) that is found in humans and animals. It plays a key role in cushioning and lubricating the body and is abundant in the eyes, joints and heart valves. Babies are born with a high level of hyaluronic acid and that is why their skin is so plump and soft.

The Source: Hyaluronic acid is either extracted from rooster combs or made synthetically through bacterial fermentation.

Beauty Benefits: Now the fact that it has 'acid' in the name may make you think hyaluronic acid is harsh on skin, however this couldn't be further from the truth. Hyaluronic acid actually provides a large number of benefits to the skin. Hyaluronic acid's main benefit is its ability to hold 1000 times its weight in water - making it one of the most powerful natural moisturising ingredients known to science. It is also popular for its ability to deeply penetrate the skin. In addition, when applied topically, hyaluronic acid improves elasticity, decreases wrinkles and helps to repair environmental damage.

Hyaluronic Acid is such a powerful ingredient that many people have hyaluronic acid injections. Hyaluronic acid injections - Restylane being the most popular - are a type of dermal filler administered by a dermatologist or plastic surgeon. Hyaluronic acid fillers are used to support facial structures and tissues that have lost volume or elasticity due to ageing. They also bring water to the surface of skin to keep it looking supple and fresh.

Warnings: Hyaluronic acid is safe to use topically

Found in: The Pestle & Mortar Pure Hyaluronic Serum (£33.00 pestleandmortarcosmetics.com). This serum is a hydrating power house! It glides on the skin easily, absorbs incredibly quickly and, unlike some hyaluronic acid-based products, isn't at all sticky. It plumps and soothes the skin and does a great job at reducing fine lines.

Review: Caudalie Polyphenol C15 Anti-Wrinkle Defense Serum

The Promise: "This Polyphenol + Vitamin C anti-oxidant, anti-wrinkle concentrate blocks 100% of free radicals (the main cause of wrinkles), corrects and defends the skin against the aggressions of daily life (UV rays, pollution). It is enriched with hyaluronic acid and olive squalane, to hydrate and plump the skin, giving an instant filled in effect".

The Price: £35.00 / $62.00 30ml

The Stockist: feelunique.com / Sephora

The Application: This product glides onto the skin like an absolutely dream. It comes in a medicinal-style dropper bottle that helps dispense the perfect amount of product needed to cover the entire face and neck - in this case, just a pea size amount.

This Polyphenol C15 Serum has a lightweight, milky texture that absorbs quickly into the skin. The second it's applied it feels tacky on the skin, however this feeling goes away in 1-2 minutes, leaving skin silky smooth. This serum also has a fresh, gentle scent, thanks to fragrance notes of mandarin blossom, lemon tree leaf, cucumber water and fresh mint. As with many Caudalie products, this serum is non-comedogenic, paraben free and dermatologically tested.

The Results: The results of this serum are impressive, instantly impressive at that. I first applied this product at night and woke up with skin that was more supple and plump - overall my skin just looked amazing. This really was love at first application!

Although the Polyphenol C15 Anti-Wrinkle Defense Serum is an anti-ageing serum, it is actually a great all-rounder. It is a serum that deeply hydrates skin, softens and plumps the skin, reduces the appearance of fine lines and protects skin against free radicals, helping prevent premature skin ageing.

The Pro: In addition to providing visible improvements in skin condition, this serum gives 100% protection against free radicals!

The Con: I struggle to find one. The Caudalie Polyphenol C15 Anti-Wrinkle Defense Serum is  on the expensive side, however its great results justify the price tag!

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The Beauty Myth: Applying Vaseline Nightly Will Prevent Wrinkles

Verdict: False

God, if only  there were such a cheap way of preventing wrinkles!

Vaseline contains 100% petroleum jelly - a deeply moisturising ingredient that forces oils into the skin and prevents them from evaporating. So Vaseline can make wrinkles less apparent - as the moisture it provides softens fine lines - however it just can't prevent skin ageing.

In truth, only skincare products containing active ingredients (such a retinol) can keep wrinkles at bay. So swap the nightly Vaseline face treatment for an effective anti-ageing night cream. I am a big fan of the Philosophy Help Me Retinol Night Treatment 30ml (£38.00 Boots / $47.50 Sephora).

News: The Organic Pharmacy Gets Personal

Organic beauty may be stripped back but that doesn't mean it has to be basic. No one knows this more than The Organic Pharmacy and the brand's latest product is proof.

This new product I am referring to is the Beauty Elixir, a prescriptive anti-ageing cream that is tailored to suit your individual skincare needs. Obtaining your bespoke cream is easy and it begins with a thorough and in-depth one-on-one consultation with an Organic Pharmacy therapist. Each appointment will reveal your bespoke prescription based on answers to lifestyle choices, diet, metabolism, stress and current skincare routine.

Your prescriptive cream will then be formulated, combining a base of either cream or gel with one of five naturally derived complexes to tackle individual skin concerns. Your therapist will keep your details on record, inviting you to a follow up as part of the price. And if you don't get on well with the cream, The Organic Pharmacy will tweak the blend and give you a brand new pot! Is this a faultless service or what?

The Organic Pharmacy Beauty Elixir retails at £195.00 and is exclusive to Selfridges, London.

Review: Elemis Pro-Intense Lift Effect Night Cream

The Promise: "This lift effect firming night cream is formulated with a powerful blend of gardenia stem cells, arjuna and lupin, which help reduce the appearance of sagging jowls, cheeks and chin. Facial contours appear shaped, and skin texture visibly improved".

The Price: £95.00 / $152.00

The Stockist: qvcuk.com / timetospa.com

The Hero Ingredients: Lupin, Arjuna Bark Extract, Gardenia Plant Stem Cells and Alaria Esculenta

The Application: This anti-ageing night cream has a thick, creamy consistency that feels velvety smooth. It soothes and cools the skin the second it is applied and it has a gentle, spa-like scent. It applies easily and only a pea size amount of product is needed to cover the entire face and neck.

This cream does not feel at all sticky on the skin and  it absorbs quickly, so you won't find it rubbing off on your pillow!

The Results: This night cream claims to shape, firm and lift. I can't say much for its lifting abilities, however this anti-ager does firm the skin and improve its texture. It is also amazing at correcting pigmentation, helping to reduce the appearance of age spots, sun damage, redness and hyperpigmentation.

Although it is not promoted as one, the Pro-Intense Lift Effect Night Cream is a great winter skin saviour. It does an amazing job at hydrating the skin and locking in moisture and it protects against skin damage caused by winter months.

The Pro: This night cream is a great all-rounder. In addition to being an anti-ageing hero, it helps to nourish, hydrate and protect the skin from environmental damage.

The Con: At £95.00, it is on the expensive side. However, when you consider that only a tiny amount of product is needed per use, you do get quite a lot for your money.

Are you fan of Elemis? Have you tried any other products from the brand that you would recommend?

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Ask TBI: When Should I Start Using Anti-Ageing Products?

Question: I am 24 and a huge amount of my friends have started using anti-ageing creams. Should I be using them or am I too young? - Sarah, New York.

Answer: There is no particular age in which you should start using an anti-ageing cream. After all, we all have different skin types and skincare desires. However anti-ageing products are designed to prevent the signs of ageing, so most people take 'the earlier the better' approach. I began using anti-ageing creams at your age, however the choice is completely up to you. Regardless of the decision you make, it's important that you don't speed up the signs of ageing. Therefore don't smoke or use sunbeds and be sure to use a good SPF all year round!

If you do decide to delve into the world of anti-ageing creams, I would recommend the following...

1. Elemis Pro-Collagen Marine Cream 50ml (£79.00 timetospa.co.uk / $128.00 timetospa.com)
2. Antipodes Avocado Pear Nourishing Night Cream 60ml ( £32.00 antipodesnature.com / $52 hipapotheca.com)
3. KORRES Quercetin & Oak Antiageing Antiwrinkle Night Cream 40ml (£39 lookfantastic.com / $52.00 Sephora)

Weekly Worship: Neo Stem Anti-Accelerated Ageing Serum

Price: £59.00 30ml

Stockist: M&S Beauty

I have been applying the Neo Stem Anti-Accelerated Ageing Serum daily for the past month and I couldn't be more in love with it.

Designed to prevent the signs of lipoatrophy and premature ageing, the serum contains two active ingredients, the Omega Statine and the Z-Dronate. These ingredients work by slowing down the production of progerin, enabling the skin to maintain normal cell division, repair and production and thereby keeping the skin younger. 

The Neo Stem Serum applies effortlessly, feels amazing on the skin and delivers outstanding results. Since using it my skin is smooth, plump and free of fine lines. 

The only downside to this product?? It isn't available Stateside.....yet!

Understanding...Antioxidants

If there is one thing you expect to see in a great skincare product, it's a s**t load of antioxidants.

Antioxidants are natural molecules that are found in plants, fruits, vegetables and even meats, fish and dairy. What make antioxidants truly amazing is that they protect skin from damaging free radicals, which are unstable molecules caused by environmental nasties (for example UV exposure, pollution, and smoke). It is these free radicals that cause wrinkles, pigmentation and poor skin condition. 

In addition to protecting skin from free radicals, antioxidants can:

• Reduce the appearance of wrinkles 
• Reduce the appearance of scars 
• Firm skin 
• Treat sun damage 
• Calm the skin and reduce inflammation 
• Increase collagen production 
• Treat pigmentation 
• Treat acne

Due to their amazing benefits, antioxidants are considered active ingredients that are commonly found in result-driven skincare products. The most common and most effective antioxidants in these products are:

•           Vitamin C
•           Vitamin A
•           Vitamin E
•           Retinol
•           Alpha-lipoic acid
•           Polyphenol
•           Zinc
•           Selenium
•           Coenzyme Q10

So the more antioxidants a product contains, the better that product will be at achieving great results (see antioxidant-rich product recommendations below). Don’t forget that ingredients are always listed on the packaging in descending order of predominance - so make sure that the product's advertised antioxidants are listed as high as possible. 

It is important to mention that although antioxidants are beneficial when put onto the skin, they are even more beneficial when put into the body. For these reasons, make sure you have a balanced diet that is rich in fruit and vegetables to ensure your body is healthy from the inside out!

Recommendations

1. Dermalogica Multivitamin Power Recovery Masque 75ml (£34.50 Liberty / $48.00 ULTA Beauty)
2. The Body Shop Vitamin E Gentle Facial Wash 100ml (£8.00 The Body Shop)
3. StriVectin-AR™ Advanced Retinol Night Treatment 50ml (£79.00 Harrods / $109.00 www.strivectin.com)
4. Perricone MD Advanced Face Firming Activator 59ml(£99.00 www.cultbeauty.co.uk / $120.00 Sephora)