Friday 17 March 2023

A Guide To Acids | Part 2

Acids make for popular skincare ingredients but not all acids are created equal. Different acids provide different skincare benefits, so, to ensure you're up to date, I've shared a rundown of the most popular ones in the beauty business. Here is part two of my guide to acids...

Citric Acid | Citric acid is derived from citrus fruits and is a bigger and heavier alpha hydroxy acid. Citric acid doesn't penetrate deeper than the epidermis level and is mainly used for its lightening and antioxidant properties.

Citric Acid is found in the Comfort Zone Active Pureness Mask (£31 This creamy mask is formulated with kaolin and bentonite to purify and mattify the skin. It is also infused with citric acid and green and white clays to revive lacklustre complexions with a gentle yet clarifying treatment. Designed for oily and acne-prone skin, the Active Pureness Mask absorbs excess sebum to reduce the appearance of pores and leave skin smooth and more radiant.

Ascorbic Acid | Ascorbic acid (vitamin C) is an effective lightening compound, as well as a very powerful antioxidant and natural collagen synthesis stimulator. Unfortunately, ascorbic acid itself is extremely fragile and difficult to keep active in cosmetic products. As a result, it is used more and more rarely in skincare and replaced by different ascorbic compounds, like ethyl ascorbic acid, sodium ascorbyl phosphate, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, and ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate.

Ascorbic acid is found in PCA Skin C&E Advanced (£105 Designed to deliver a more youthful complexion, this skin-brightening formula is packed full of active ingredients, including 20% vitamin C. It evens skin tone, smooths the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, and treats pigmentation. Silymarin is included to form a protective barrier over skin to reduce free radical damage, while hexylresorcinol is used to brighten the complexion in order to banish discoloration.

Azelaic Acid | Azelaic acid is derived from grains like barley, wheat, and rye. It is famous for its anti-inflammatory and antibacterial benefits and is traditionally used as an acne treatment. In addition to treating acne, azelaic acid successfully calms inflammation, redness, and swelling, making it a good skincare ingredient for those with sensitive skin - rosacea included.

Azelaic acid is found in Paula's Choice Azelaic Acid Booster (£40, an award-winning skin treatment that delivers a multitude of benefits. Formulated with azelaic acid, salicylic acid, and plant extracts, this booster reduces the appearance of brown spots, diminishes red marks from past blemishes, helps reduce breakouts, and delivers a more radiant complexion.

Hyaluronic Acid | Hyaluronic acid is a glycosaminoglycan, which is a natural polysaccharide (essentially a very large sugar!). Hyaluronic acid is natural occurring and can be found everywhere - in the human eye, human skin, or in the body of a jellyfish! Hyaluronic acid is commonly used in moisturising and hydrating skincare products. It has also become one of the most popular types of injectable fillers.

Hyaluronic acid is found in the Grown Alchemist Instant Smoothing Serum (£48 Sephora). This concentrated serum features plant-derived high, medium, and low weight hyaluronan molecules that sink into skin and provide instant hydration. The low and medium weight hyaluronic acid draws moisture into the lower layers of the dermis, while the high weight hyaluronic acid locks in moisture on the skin's surface. The end result is healthier, stronger skin that is plump, smooth, and perfectly hydrated.

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