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The (skin) Problem with Face Masks

Credit: Audere Beaute

News of face masks being made compulsory in shops, to fight coronavirus (COVID-19), has raised many questions. The one I'm hearing a lot is whether face masks can cause any skin problems. Luckily I got the opportunity to speak with Dr Tiina Meder - dermatologist, doctor, and founder of Meder Beauty Science - to get some the answers. Spoiler alert, wearing a face mask can cause breakouts, redness, and irritation...

The Beauty Myth: Oil Should Not Be Used On Oily Skin

Verdict: False

The idea that oil is bad for oily skin is a complete myth. The absolute key to controlling oil is to use oil based products. This is a homeopathic approach whereby ‘like treats like’, therefore if you use products with a similar makeup to your own sebum, then you naturally produce less oils and your skin is healthier and more balanced. So, if you suffer from oily skin, give a face oil a try. I would recommend applying face oils in the evening if you're a little nervous about using them.

One of the best face oils available is the Perricone MD Chia Serum 30ml (£62.00 Selfridges / $75.00 Sephora). It is an antioxidant-rich face oil that is packed with - you guessed it - chia oil. Chia seeds are rich in omega-3 fatty acids. Omega-3 fatty acids strengthen the skin cell membrane of the epidermis and improve the texture and quality of the skin. This has been my staple face oil for the past three months and I am absolutely obsessed. I don't know how my skin would cope without it!

Understanding...Salicylic Acid

Salicylic Acid is a beta hydroxy acid that has keratolytic properties. Its structure enables it to gently penetrate the skin, breaking down and exfoliating the dead skin cells that block pores and cause acne. Salicylic acid also has anti-inflammatory and anti-bacterial properties which help remove redness and reduce the amount of damaging bacteria on the skin. It treats other skin problems by softening and loosening dry, scaly, or thickened skin so that it can be removed.

Salicylic acid has also been proven to firm the skin, stimulate collagen production and improve skin thickness and barrier functions. If things couldn't get any better, low concentrations of salicylic acid can be used on sensitive skin.

As it is such a great multi-tasking ingredient, salicylic acid is used in many skincare products. You will find this miracle ingredient in everything from serums and creams to toners and treatment pads.

Recommendations

1. La Roche-Posay Effaclar K (£13.00 Boots / $29.95 www.laroche-posay.us)
2. SkinCeuticals Blemish + Age Defense (£41.10 www.hqhair.com / $80.00 www.skinceuticals.com)
3. EVE LOM Dynaspot (£22.00 www.evelom.com / $34.00 www.barneys.com) 
4. Clinique Clarifying Lotion 3 (£16.00 www.clinique.co.uk / $13.00 www.clinique.com)

Review: Environ® Active Vitamin Treatment Facial

The Promise: "The freshest, most active forms of Vitamin A, C and antioxidants are driven deep into the lower layers of the skin using state-of-the-art technology. This scientific approach stimulates collagen, softens lines and improves elasticity while increasing hydration and boosting radiance".

The Price: £144 (which includes a £65 Skin Analysis Consultation)

The Place: Skin3, 41 Fairfax Road, Swiss Cottage, London NW6 4EL

Key Products Used: Environ AVST Pre-Cleansing Oil, Environ AVST Moisturising Toner, Environ Serum C-Quel and Alginate Masque.

The Treatment: The Environ® Active Vitamin Treatment began with a skin analysis consultation, in which I discussed my lifestyle, beauty habits and skin care concerns and desires with a skincare consultant. I then had to pop my face inside a high-tech camera. One side of my face was photographed and the image was then sent to a connected computer for analysis. The computer analysed every inch of my skin, examining everything from sun damage and pigmentation to ageing and texture. The consultant then went through the results thoroughly, advising me on how best to treat the parts of my skin that are not in great condition. The result of this analysis was also important in determining which Environ products were going to be used throughout my facial.

The facial began with a deep cleanse and exfoliation. A treatment gel was then applied using a ceramic-headed probe. This handheld machine provides a special combination of sound waves and electrical pulses to areas of the face or neck where intensive treatment is needed. The machine increases the absorption of the active ingredients there to help reduce the appearance of lines, wrinkles, scars or pigment blemishes. It provided a tingling sensation but was not at all painful or uncomfortable.

What followed was a face mask like no other; a thick, heavy mask that transformed into rubber as it began to dry. The mask covered my entire face, including my eyes and mouth. The only area of my face that was exposed was my nostrils - I mean, I had  to breathe! Then, to make things a little more unique, a pulsed electrical current was sent through my body to maximise the benefits of the mask. The current is designed to facilitate greater penetration of the vitamins within the mask, helping to restore and/or maintain healthy, more youthful looking skin. This may sound dangerous but it was completely painless - the only sensation I felt was a light tingling across my skin. After 20 minutes the machine was turned off and the mask was easily removed. The treatment was finished with the application of an Environ day cream and antioxidant suncream.

The Results: My skin looked bright and fresh the minute I left Skin3, however the results really kicked in a couple of days after the facial. My skin had a lovely texture and I noticed that it was more radiant and plump. Pigmentation had also been reduced! In the weeks that followed the treatment, skincare products were applying more easily and I received many complements on the condition of my skin.

I was also able to take the information gathered during the skin analysis and apply it to my everyday life. I could finally ensure that I was eating the right foods and applying the correct products to help treat my visible and non-visible skin damage.

The Pro: The facial wasn't just relaxing and skin enhancing, it was also educational! I left Skin3 feeling more clued-up about the true state of my skin and the most effective ways to treat it.

The Con: The mask application was a little unnerving. Although the procedure was perfectly safe and supervised, I felt a tiny bit uncomfortable having my eyes and mouth covered.

www.skin3.co.uk

Faithful Four: Night Creams

The Body Shop Vitamin E Night Cream

Promise: “This rich night cream replenishes moisture levels while you sleep. It intensively hydrates, works when skin is at its most receptive and leaves skin soft and smooth”

Price: £11.00/$20.00 50ml 

Purchase: www.thebodyshop.co.uk, www.thebodyshop-usa.com

This thick and soothing night cream is great for dry and sensitive skin. However avoid this cream at all costs if you suffer from oily skin as you may find it makes it worse. The price is great, a little goes a long way and skin is left hydrated and glowing the morning after using it. It's no surprise that this night cream is one of The Body Shop's best selling products.

REN Frankincense Revitalising Night Cream

Promise: “A night cream formulated to hydrate, recharge and revitalise the skin overnight, leaving it looking radiant, smoothed and beautifully healthy”
Price: £32.00/$55.00 50ml
Purchase: www.renskincare.com, Planet Organic, Sephora

The REN Frankincense Revitalising Night Cream is a gentle night cream that really injects moisture into the skin. As with all REN products, this night cream is paraben free. The cream has a silky, light texture that glides onto the skin easily. Some of the key ingredients are Vitamin C and Citroflavonoids which reduce free radical damage and boost collagen production and Frankincense and Boswellic Acid which help smooth expression lines and wrinkles.

Eucerin Anti-Ageing Hyaluron Filler Night Cream

Promise: “Eucerin Anti-Ageing Hyaluron Filler Night Cream with wrinkle-filling treatment plumps up the appearance of even deep wrinkles from the inside”

Price: £26.00 50ml

Purchase: Boots

This cream is thick, ultra hydrating and best used on normal, mature or dry skin. It feels soothing on skin and when I wake, my skin looks (and feels!) plumped and much perkier. Hero ingredients include Hyaluronic Acid and Saponin which restore skin volume, reducing the appearance of wrinkles. This cream also creates a great base for foundation, making it a great day cream alternative if you run out!

Antipodes Avocado Pear Nourishing Night Cream

Promise: “This deeply nourishing , superior-performance botanical night cream restores life to your skin overnight. Its select premium plant oils promote collagen production & regeneration of healthy cells”

Price: £32.95/$60.00 60ml 

Purchase: www.antipodesnature.com (UK), www.antipodesnature.com (USA)

This has to be one of my all time favourite night creams. It has been scientifically proven to stimulate type I collagen production by up to 92% and this is evident the morning after applying. My skin looks plumper, feels super soft and fine lines are less visible! Though on the pricey side, a little product goes a long way and the pot seems to last a lifetime.